Sunday, August 30, 2015

Nails 101: The Basics of Grooming


I get a lot of questions about my nails. I've always done my own nails and I have never been to a salon to get them done. At this point, I feel as if I don't need to pay anyone to give me a manicure. Through trial and error over the years I have come up with many tips and trips that help me to achieve a professional looking manicure without the salon price tag. I'm going to have a few posts all about nails to answer a lot of the questions I've gotten over the years.

For the first nail related post, I'm going to start with the basics of grooming the nail to prep it for painting.

Tools Needed:
1.     Crystal Nail File
2.     Cuticle Trimmer
3.     Cuticle Remover
4.     Cuticle Stick
5.     Cuticle Cream/Balm
6.     Hand Cream






Step One: Cuticles

The key to a polished, professional looking manicure is neatly groomed cuticles. When the cuticles are over grown and ragged, it can make the entire manicure look sloppy. Think of your cuticles as the picture frame that ties everything together. You wouldn't put a $1 plastic frame on the Mona Lisa, would you?

1.     The first thing I use to keep my cuticles in check is a cuticle trimmer . There are some people who are avidly against cuticle trimmers. What it does is trim the excess skin off, making the cuticle instantly shorter and neater. However, it can make the cuticle grow back faster and thicker. I don't have any issues with this, mainly because I do this weekly and this is not the sole method I use to groom my cuticles. Please be careful when using a cuticle trimmer. Use it to trim off the dead skin around the nail like hangnails, or any skin that has grown over the nail and is starting to lift off. You DO NOT want to press down too hard or cut into the cuticle bed. This could cause damage to the cuticle bed and also cause infection. That is why I am a fan of the cuticle trimmer from Revlon that is linked above. It’s not too dull or too sharp, which prevents you from going a little crazy; it will just get the dead skin. If you are anti-cuticle trimmers, then by all means skip this step.

2.     The second thing I use on my cuticles is a gel cuticle remover. My current favorite is the Sally Hansen Instant Cuticle RemoverAfter I've trimmed my cuticles, I apply a small amount of the cuticle remover to each cuticle and then spread it around with a cuticle stick. I let it sit for about a minute and then gently use the cuticle stick remove any extra dead skin and push the cuticle back. Wipe this off and then wash your hands. Think of this step as if you're exfoliating the nail. It gently lifts up dead skin cells, leaving the cuticles neat and the nail nicely groomed.

Step Two: Filing and Shaping the Nail

It's time to put down the nail clippers and the sand paper emery boards. In my opinion, the best way to shorten, shape and file your nails is with a crystal file. Nail clippers can cause the nail to split and peel, especially for those with weak nails. Emery boards can also be too rough on the nail and cause splitting. I personally never cared for how emery boards feel against my nail while filing. A quality glass file effectively shortens the nail through filing and creates a smooth edge with no splitting or peeling. Over time, you'll have stronger nails. A glass file can also last a life time, that is if you don't drop it! I paid about $7 for a quality glass file on Amazon back on 2011 and it's still going strong. You may initially think that paying upwards of $10 for a nail file is a tad ridiculous, but I assure you, it’s a great investment and will pay for itself, as it should last you a lifetime opposed to constantly purchasing emery boards that need to be replaced often.

To shape my nails, I simply file back and forth in a straight line. Some suggest that you should only file in one direction because the back and forth motion can weaken the nail. I have never experienced this, but file in whichever direction you prefer and works best for you.

My favorite nail shape is a short, square nail. I file the nail down in a straight line to the desired length and then softly round out the edges so the points of the nail aren’t to sharp. You may need to take the glass file and gently run it underneath the nail to remove any nail remnants from filing.

**QUICK TIP: To best achieve the perfect shape of whatever your desire nail shape may be (round, pointed, square, etc.), file your nails right before removing you old manicure. This way, you won't get distracted by you natural nail line, which naturally grows out unevenly. Having nail polish already on the nail when you file helps you to really see the shape you are making!

Step Three: Moisturize!

You can file your nails perfectly and have pristine cuticles, but if you aren't constantly pampering and moisturizing your hands afterwards, it's a bit of a waste. To maintain the health of your nails you need to moisturize them and do it often!

·      Cuticle Creams: Cuticle creams are especially formulated with the cuticles in mind. They are often times richer and more concentrated than hand creams and also have ingredients that help to strengthen nails. Consistent use of a cuticle cream helps to prevent peeling and splitting nails, dry and peeling cuticles and hang nails.

o   Recommendations:
1.     Burt's Bees Lemon Butter Cuticle Cream. This is a staple product for me. It has a light, fresh lemon scent and does an excellent job of moisturizing and nourishing cuticles. I prefer to use this during the day, throughout the day as I remember. If my nails are being temperamental and are peeling just a bit, this sorts it out. It has more of a balm texture than that of a cream, so it's not heavy or sticky on this skin. A little goes a long way and at just $5-6 per tin, you can't beat the value!

2.     Christian Dior Abricot Nail Creme. I discovered this heavy-duty gem this past winter when it was so cold and so dry outside that my hands literally hurt from how dry my skin was. None of my lotions and potions were saving my skin. I stumbled upon the Christian Dior Abricot Nail Creme online and it had great reviews so I decided to take the plunge; a $27 plunge. I know! I know! But it was so worth it! This product is heavy, thick, rich, emollient and all those good words! Because it is so gooey, it is suggested for nighttime use. When applied at night before bed, it brings your cuticles back to life the next morning and the more you use it, the better the results. I don't much care for the smell, but I'll deal with it because I no longer have to suffer from dry winter skin. Never underestimate the power of eBay. Check there so see if you can find it for a few bucks cheaper.

·      Hand Creams: Much like cuticle creams, avidly using hand creams keeps your hands in tip-top shape. They moisturize the nails and cuticles, but predominately keep your hands soft and provide a line of defense against the elements when used regularly, throughout the day.

o   Recommendations:
1.     LUSH Helping HandsI also discovered this product this past winter when my hands were painfully dry. I was in the market for a heavier hand cream to use at night and this fit the bill. It has soothing ingredients like chamomile, marigold and lavender to provide relief for painful hands. A little goes a long way and I always wake up with super soft hands the next morning. This is on the pricey side; 3.5 ounces will set you back $18.95, but it's a quality product with wholesome ingredients that will last you a while. Side note: I recently applied this to sunburned arms at night and woke up with soothed skin that was not angry and pink. Brillant!

2.  Crabtree & Evelyn Verbana and Lavender Hand Therapy. Any scent/formulation of the Crabtree & Evelyn hand creams is good so just pick your poison! Right now I'm really into the Verbana and Lavender scent; it's bright but warm. These hand creams are not too heavy so they are great for daytime use. They just get the job done. The 3.5 ounce tubes retail for $22, but I often find them at my local TJ Maxx for around $7, so when I see them, I stock up!


I know this post was long, but I hope it was helpful! I have a few more of these Nail 101 posts planned, so keep your eyes peels for the next post in the series on how to actually paint your nails perfectly (probably the top question I'm asked!).

- Alana